Three braves whisk through the woods like leather ghosts and disappear into the canopy. Hardly a sound is heard with their passing, their tracks unrecognizable in the pungent mulch. Their mounts slip through the pine forest with ease, darting around the occasional oak, hickory or wild plum. Riders gulp air like starving lions pursuing their prey. Their senses tell them that the chase is almost over. The last rider sees an opening, takes a chance and brushes past his rivals laughing, before slowing to catch his breath. Camp is just ahead and smoke from the fire wafts through the trees, bringing with it the aroma of sautéed onions. The girls must have taken a shortcut…lucky again. They lean their mountain bikes against a tree and each man takes a long pull from his Camelbak. These are the moments we live for…those breathless few seconds after a long and difficult climb or a sprint through the wilderness. This is why we go outside.
Who would think that driving a few hours southeast of the flatlands of central Oklahoma would put us within this wonderland of adventure, the Ouachita Mountains? Once a westward extension of the Appalachians, the Ouachitas run east and west, where most mountain ranges run north and south. Like the teeth of an old tiger, their once-tall spires are worn down with age, now reaching no more than 2,750 feet above sea level. Their ridges and valleys are laced together with backwoods trails, Native American history and excuses to call in sick one more day.The Ouachita National Forest is the oldest and largest National Forest in the South, established in 1907, the same year Oklahoma became a state. It has over 700 miles of trails for hiking, mountain biking and motorized vehicles, with 35 developed recreation areas and six wilderness areas. The mountain range’s east-west orientation creates distinct habitats on its north and south slopes. In the spring, the northern slope in particular is rich with wildflowers. Along the ridgelines, trees are often stunted from powerful prevailing south winds and winter ice storms. Blow-downs and deadfalls are common and may cause an occasional reroute or scramble to continue your trek. The entire area is rife with wildlife and served as seasonal hunting grounds for several Native American tribes. Don’t be surprised to see black bear, turkey, ground squirrels and, of course, deer during your visit.The Womble Trail:Known by the International Mountain Biking Association (“IMBA”), as the Womble Epic, this trail begins in western Arkansas just a few miles east of the Oklahoma border near Mount Ida. It runs about 40 miles, some of which are along bluffs overlooking the Ouachita River. It eventually intersects the Ouachita National Recreation Trail, allowing those wanting to put down a few more miles just the opportunity they are seeking. Keep an eye peeled for quartz crystal veins along the way…a few will cross your route. Three float camps along the Ouachita River offer a chance to hook up with canoeing friends, and local outfitters offer shuttle service to mountain bikers who need a lift. Free, primitive camping is anywhere flat enough to stick a sleeping bag to the hillside and highway access is relatively easy if you want to stash food, water or gear for overnight mountain bike outings. Narrow plank bridges cross perennial streams feeding the Ouachita, and rocky grades can be steep enough to send the heart rate soaring. The Womble is a favorite of those who have been there and a must-do for anyone looking for action beyond the local venues but short on time off.
The Ouachita Trail The purist might opt for backpacking the Ouachita Trail, the premier attraction of the region. The “OT” begins at Talimena State Park, just outside of Talihina, Oklahoma. Although about 2/3 of this 223-mile path is open to mountain bikers, you won’t likely meet many along the route. The footpath is divided into 10 segments of mostly rugged trail, such that hikers who want to take a week or a weekend to do a portion of the trail can do so, with section length ranging from about 15 miles to almost 30. Primitive camping is available anywhere along the trail, but finding a flat spot to pitch your tent is not always easy. Developed campgrounds are also available and on the eastern reaches of the trail you can take advantage of shelters if you like. The OT traverses the mountain range eastward through Queen Wilhelmina State Park, ending at Pinnacle Mountain State Park near Little Rock, Arkansas. The Ouachita Trail Guide by Tim Ernst (available at some Backwoods stores and at TimErnst.com), is the best resource for planning your hike, locating water and campsites, and discerning difficulty levels along the way. The spring and fall seasons will put you there during some of Oklahoma’s most beautiful natural displays.

The Choctaw Nation Trail: If two-wheeled travel is your bag but you’d rather not pedal, the “INT” or Indian Nation Trail is also located in the Ouachita Mountains. Recently renamed The Choctaw Nation Trail, this 43-mile stretch of rock-strewn single- and double-track is available to hikers, mountain bikers, equestrians and motorcycles. Often considered a volatile mix, a truce of sorts seems to keep collisions of ideals and transportation modes to a minimum. Like the Ouachita Trail, the INT begins at Talimena State Park. It ends at Billy Creek Campground, three miles north of Highway 63 and six miles west of Big Cedar, Oklahoma. Gnarly switchbacks test the mettle of man and machine as they climb towards the Talimena Drive (a popular two-lane scenic highway following the ridgeline between Talihina, Oklahoma and Mena, Arkansas). Halfway to the top, it is not uncommon to see dirt bikes beside the trail with steam spewing from the radiator and riders puffing just as profusely! It is not for the faint of heart. Campgrounds with facilities are located at both ends of the trail, but it’s a good idea to pack a lunch and carry plenty of water before tackling the INT on a dirt bike. Getting There: The western gate to the Ouachita Mountains is Talihina, Oklahoma, about (4 hours from Norman.) Check out Ouachita National Forest Website for more information on hours and fees.

Given that we might need to justify a day’s drive, and sometimes have only a few extra days to enjoy the outdoors, we are blessed to live here in the so-called “Flatlands” of Oklahoma. I have found my home a hub from which an idea, a bit of good gear, and a couple tanks of gas can take me to a place where precious memories are waiting to be made. It’s a long day’s drive to the San Juan Mountains of Colorado but the payoff is worth every mile. Once in the area, you don’t have to go far to start enjoying the splendor. Ouray, also known as “Little Switzerland,” and “The Gem of the Rockies,” is a hub of activity for the surrounding area. The Bear Creek Trail begins about five miles south of Ouray on Highway 550, the infamous “Million Dollar Highway.” Park on the south end of the rock tunnel, scramble up over its roof, and lock in your hiking poles. You’re in for a climb. Layers of broken slate line the path up these steep switchbacks, making for a two-steps-forward, one-step-back kind of progress. You’ll be glad you brought the poles. The views overlooking Bear Creek are increasingly breathtaking the higher you go. Icy snowmelt roars below and one can only imagine how difficult life must have been here for the early gold miners, especially during the winter months. Kent Nelson wrote a novel about this trail, “All Around Me Peaceful,” and as we brush past columbine and a stand of Indian paintbrush, I realize, it is. Our destination today is the Yellow Jacket Mine, about seven nearly vertical miles from where we parked. Seven miles is nothing in Oklahoma but can easily consume most of your energy and a large portion of your day at this altitude. A chilly rain begins to fall as our day draws to a close and we wonder how much farther to our camp. Temperatures are dropping and our legs are wet from rubbing against vegetation on the side of the narrow trail. Darkness is fast approaching when an old miner’s cabin appears just ahead on our right. Half the roof is missing and part of the floor has been ripped up for firewood. Steel bed springs remain, daring us to camp here rather than setting up our tents as the rain picks up. Susan and I park our 13-year-old son in this ragged shelter to warm up and set about the task of making camp, staking tents into a narrow space between boulders. Making a fire is challenging but it sure feels good. We’re all chilled to the bone. Dinner, compliments of Mountain House and our Jet Boil stove, fills our bellies. We are glad we brought good gear and the chill leaves us quickly once we are in our tents. Thus begins one of many excursions through the Uncompahgre Wilderness in the majestic San Juan Mountains.A remote hideout at the confluence of Angel Creek and Canyon Creek has been a favorite family base camp for years. You are only a couple miles off highway 550 on the Camp Bird Mine Road southwest of Ouray, but it feels like a million miles from civilization. Governor Basin and Yankee Boy, famous for their brief but magnificent display of late summer wildflowers, are just up the Jeep road. The Weehawken Trail, only a mile or so from base camp, is a great day hike. If you are patient and venture off the beaten path a bit, you may come across the remnants of a rough log dwelling, still containing artifacts from some hopeful miner. Views of U.S. Mountain and Potosi can be seen from the trail and you will have a great perspective over Ouray during this roughly three mile jaunt. The back route to Governor Basin following the ridgeline clockwise is precarious at best and only recommended for narrow short wheelbase vehicles and highly skilled drivers. Camping above timberline at Governor Basin is nothing short of magic. The craggy sawtooth spires of St. Sophia Ridge grace the sunset and this fragile alpine tundra will pique your conscience and remind you to leave any motor vehicles on the designated path before venturing off into the wilds. I have stashed a cold one here in the hollow of a tree in times past, only to return a season or two later thanking a younger me for that forethought. Many a sleeping bag has become aerated by the glowing sparks of my campfire as I lay beside it under this massive sky, feeding in sticks all night to stay warm. I have hiked, Jeeped, bicycled and motorcycled these mountains for more than 30 years. They have become old friends. Pick your poison here on the western slope of the Rockies. CW McCall says it best, “You can hike it if you’ve got the legs, or you can ride it if you’ve got the horse, or you can Jeep it if you’ve got the nerve.” In fact, nerve can be an important ingredient regardless of how you travel here, because virtually every trail is hewn from near-vertical rock face. It’s a tough sell to extend your day’s drive this far from Oklahoma, but there are many more reasons to do so than excuses to stay home. Check out San Juan National Forest Website for more information on hours and fees.

“There’s gold in them thar hills!” Or so they thought here in the Wichita Mountains at the turn of the 20th century. Rumors of the precious metal brought with it wide-eyed fortune seekers as the threat of Indian raids began to diminish. Unfortunately, they turned up little more than granite dust in these rugged Southwest Oklahoma hills. One of the last of the gold rushes began here in 1901, but had all but petered out by 1904. The Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge (“WMWR”), located north of Lawton and Fort Sill, is the oldest managed wildlife facility in the United States. These days, hiking, bouldering, and rock climbing are strong attractions. Navigation is relatively easy among the canyons and boulders, but one could become disoriented as he casts about for the main trail so be sure to take along a compass and trail map or better yet a GPS. Wildlife is plentiful and some are dangerous. There are about 650 buffalo within the park borders. A buffalo can easily outrun a human, and will attack if they feel threatened. It’s not uncommon to see elk, longhorn cattle, wild turkey and several species of rattlesnakes in this 59,000 acre natural habitat. “Prairie Dog Town” offers viewing of a less threatening variety of wildlife. Day hiking is popular, with Dog Run Hollow and Charon’s Garden Wilderness affording some longer treks. For a short but exhilarating hike, Elk Mountain offers breathtaking views. If you are intrigued by the thought of buried treasure, stories are still passed around campfires to this day. Rumor has it that three outlaws hid $40,000 in gold coins, perhaps within view of the top of Elk Mountain. Mount Scott is popular for bouldering or just driving to the top to enjoy the view. A three-mile asphalt ribbon winds its way to the 2,464 foot summit, also making it a popular training venue for cyclists. If top-rope climbing is your bag, Bat Cave, “Crazy Alice,” “The Narrows,” and Charon’s Garden are just a few of the challenges you’ll find waiting. The energy expended during your hike to the base is your only investment to enjoy these routes, which range from 5.6 to 5.13. In addition to navigation aids, be sure to take along a proper hydration system, good footwear and trail snacks when exploring these granite pathways. Winter, spring and fall are all good times to visit the WMWR, but mid-summer can be brutal. Take a leap into the 40-Foot Hole to cool off from the oppressive heat if you want, but keep an eye peeled for one of those rattlesnakes hiding among the rocks! Back country camping permits are available for Charon’s Garden Wilderness at the refuge headquarters and modern camping is available at Doris Campground. No visit here is complete without stopping at Meers for one of their famous 7-inch diameter Meers Burgers made from genuine Longhorn beef grown on the family’s own cattle ranch. The villages of Meers and Medicine Park are both only a stone’s throw from the refuge and each town offers its own unique dining experience. Capture the feeling of hiking through deep canyons, strolling beside trickling creeks and along narrow ravines that open up to fabulous vistas, just two hours southwest of Oklahoma City. For more information on the Wichita Mountains Check out Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge.